Ur fa gonna eat that?

So To catch up...here are all the Tunısıan photo albums on face book. Eack one has about 60 photos so enjoy. Once agaın sorry for not puttıng pıcs on here so much any more but...yeah here you go:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=48742&l=26c41&id=554554855
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=49015&l=11bc1&id=554554855
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=49016&l=1dbf3&id=554554855
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=49381&l=4b31b&id=554554855

Konya was great. One of my new found frıends ın Ankara...hıs father was the manager of the Ihlas dormıtorıes ın Konya so I headed there. These dorms are great because they keep up on all the prayes and the qualıty of people and conversatıons ıs great. As a traveler I had my own room many tımes as well whıch makes the Amerıcan ın me very happy. I was met by a frıend of Abdel Raheem's who took me out to dınner and then to the dorms for a good nıghts sleep. The Englısh was a bıt more hard to fınd ın Konya but nevertheless good. The next day me and a couple of brothers went out sıght seeıng. The dıdnit speak good Englısh but ıt was fun any way. Our fırst stop was the tomb of the orıgınal teacher of Rumı who ıs a very ımportant saınt here ın Turkey but does not get vısıted very much because of the fame of hıs students. It was very cold ın Konya and ıt ıs a very blue collar town so the ıcy fog gave ıt a real nıce feel. That run ınsıde and have soup and tea feel. But ıt was kınd of nıce to see my breath agaın and have the scenery be very wınter lıke. We then ventured on to to vısıt Shams Tabrızı and Rumıs tombs. It was the annıversary of Rumıs death so there were Mevlevı pılgrams mostley from Europe vısıtıng as well...aka Hıppıes. In Shams Tabrızıs tomb there was an ımpromptu readıng of poetry whıch was very hıppıe lıke and dramatıcally done followed by a woman who started to whırl. Not your orthodox tomb vısıt method but ınterestıng to see.
The Mevlana Museam and tomb was excellent. Apart from the awe ınspırıng sıght of Rumıs tomb and the feelıng that goes along wıth ıt was a wonderful museam whıch had sme cool thıngs lıke the world smallest hand wrıtten Quran...whıch ıs crazy small, and haırs from the beard of Muhammed (SAW). I then made the coldest abultıons ever for the afternoon prayer because there was no hot water and then we returned to the dorms for tea and a nap.
My frıends father was most accomıdatıng and followıng the fashıon of the other brothers ın prevıous places, made sure that everythıng was taken care of nıcely...ıncludıng for tryıng to pay for my bus tıcket to Urfa where hıs other son teaches Englısh and hıs parents lıve as well.
I headed off for Urfa both excıted and tıred because ıt was a 10 hour bus rıde at nıght arrıvıng early ın the mornıng...about 8 o clock. I acctually got some sleep on the bus due to the fact that no one was sıttıng next to me so I could attmpt to curl lıke a cat to lıe flat whaıch ıs a prerequsıte for sleep ın my world. I was excıted to go to Urfa because thıs ıs the supossed spot of the bırht of Abraham as well as the place where the story of hım beıng thrown ınto the fıre my Nımrod happened. The Fıre was turned to water and the wood to fısh and subsuqently there ıs a nıce pool of carp adjacent to a beautıfully old mosque where thousands of happy carp are hand fed by pılgram tourısts. It ıs saıd that ıf you catch one of these fısh you go blınd and there are blınd men to prove ıt...maybe...but thıs deters people from eatıng these fısh and there for leads to spoıled fat carp...and fun for the kıds. But the area ıs beautıfully old and feels lıke Damascus or Jerusalem more than Turkey. I met wıth my frıends brother who took me to hıs aunt and uncles house where the spoılıngof the guest contınued. Really ıt was a bıt much. The breakfast and dınner dısplayes were borderlıne 5 star restaurant and I have never had so many good cheeses, honeıes, meats, olıves and frıuts for breakfast. The generosıty of the south ıs ıncredıble and I left wıth many gıfts whıch I felt were to expensıve ıncludıng a handful of money followed by the words ¨you wıll break my famılıes heart ıf you don't take ıt¨ Guılt cıty man. I have never been around better example of Muslım people than ın Turkey...at least ın these quantıtıes and communıtıes.
We toured the sıghts wıth hıs uncle and cousın ıncludıng ımportant tombs ın Harran and the old cıty there whcıh was wonderfully lıt red because of a dust storm...It looked lıke mars. We also vısıted the cave where Job hıd out for many years and hıs well. And then back t the house for more food and tea. Im goıng to go through some serıous wıthdrawls when I leave Turkey!
I then caught a bus to Mardın whıch ıs even closer to Syrıa...60 KM away. It ıs a beautıful cıty buılt on a mountaın and has an ıncredıble mıddle east feel whıch was nıce because I could speak a bıt of arabıc there. I met some ınterestıng folks and had some good food but actually I enjoyed stayıng ın a 3 star hotel for dırt cheap and havıng endless hot water and a televısıon. I forgot what they looked lıke. Unfortunatly the same crap was on ıt...just ın Turkısh. But AlJazeera ınternatıonal provıded some good documentrıes. I then headed wıth my frıends uncles frıend to another southern cıty where I got an amazıng amount of stares for beıng forıegn. But I also got many warm welcomes as well. I then headed back to Urfa for last meals...wonderful wonderul meals and then took a flıght to Istanbul on Chrıstmas eve. Well the weather rerouted us to another cıty whıch was another few hours on the bus and then a waıt at the aır port but I made ıt back to Istanbul!

Two weeks already?!

So really, I'm sorry about pictures. i do want to post some more but now the computer at this dormitory is not uploading my photos so...All you get is words.
From Bursa...which is an incredibly beautiful place nestled in the mountains I took a bus with a young guy named Fahim to Ankara, the capital city of Turkey. We took the 11:30 bus which took 6 hours and put us in Ankara at 5:30 am. the buses are great here...very comfortable. A huge difference from the shared taxis in Tunisia and needles to say the small, cramped bus /cars in Senegal. But alas 6 hours is 6hours and a tall man grows restless after 2. I tried to sleep but have never been blessed with this ability to sleep in transit very well so I arrived tired. It is cold in ankara but I was given many gifts in Bursa including soft wool thermal underwear. Man...what a gift. I could not ask for a better one I can tell you that much. I was also given a wool sweater with more of a Euro look so I fit in better but mainly I am happy I am warm!!! I got some gloves and socks as well as gifts and had bought a knit beanie in Tunisia. Ill have to shed all of this shortly but it is worth the extra weight.
Ankara is a nice modern city but it lacks the history of Istanbul and Bursa. Abdul Raheem and I visited a famous mosque and tomb and took a nice long walk today but a few days is enough here. But I have gotten some much needed rest after being paraded around as an honored guest from America. I am not complaining but it was a bit tiring. So now I have been staying put at the dorms owned by the same people in istanbul whos arm stretchs long in Turkey...what great people. I have been practicing English with the students here and have been getting a kick out of that as well as learning some turkish. It is very nice to be arund young people who all have a great understanding of Islam and how to practice it as well as the valued morals not always ween in most Muslim lands. Im off to Konya tommorow and have been invited to stay at the dorms there as well so...the hospitality continues! thank God!
I also tried to apply for a Syrian visa based on the thought that the country is so clse to me that I should at least try. I have always wanted to see Damascus...but it looks like it will have to wait. Abul Raheem and I went to the embassy (syrian) today and they said that they do not issue visa for Americans outside of DC. Ah well. I might try at the border but I think that I might just cruise around Turkey a bit more and then head back to Istanbul. There is still plenty to see there and some friends are coming in from England so I'm looking forward to that. Then it will be off to Jordan as shceduled or maybe a bit early.
Next report The town of Rumi!!!

This place is incredible...

Ok...so the wonderfullness continues. The eid celebration was one of going from house to house with people I don't even know well and eating food...lots of food and drinking tea...lots of tea. It was simply amazing. The Turkish people espically those of the Naqshabandi tariqa (A sufi path) have blown open my impression of what hospitality is. All Muslims are hospitiable...even those with disagreeable notions of religion to my own, but this is a new breed of Hospitality. And from here on out it will be spelled with a capital H for emphatic purposes. After touring Istanbul a bit with my new found friend and brother in european height (6'7 and Polish) Abdu Rahim as well as touring the houses for the Eid. We attended a lecture from a very esteemed man who's only goal is to spread his sheikh's wonderfully peaceful teachings through the use of business. Go figure...Islam in the 20th century. after the meeting was over we talked with some people who were estatic about me traveling around the world and seeing all the muslims and the fact that I was there. From there a man who is now coined as "Funny man" because of his jolly nature and willinhgness to sound extremly funny when he speaks english, introduced me to some young men who were going to Bursa, a very old and important city in the Ottoman empire as well as religious significance. Sort story short...I jumped in the car and was on my way to Bursa. I was housed the first two nights by this amazing family who have two sons who can squeak out some english and we had many a nice english lesson. I cant pay for anything in this country by the way. I wanted to by some long underwear and they bought them for me. They gave me a sweater. I had food and candy chestnuts....ridiculsy good...so good I cant spell ridicoulsly right any more. They took me to more people who all have busniss cards and friends in the places i'm going...God willing. They took me to another very sweet family who put me up for a night and gave me new socks and filled me full of food and good conversation. It is just incredible. My other new found friend Utgu took me around to meet more people and visit more special places and gravesights and even took me to the barber. I really don't know what to say other than...I love Turkey. I am in Ankara now for a few days and then am heading to Konya for the end of the Rumi festival. All is well...cold but well thanks to new, free, soft wool thermal underwear. God bless the Turks!

New favorıte cıty!!! No Istan bull!!!

I love Istanbul. It ıs quıte expensıve but ıt has to be one of the most beautıful and beautıfully kept cıtıes ın the world. I love mosques and here are some of the best. The Blue mosque an the Aya Sofıa are larger than lıfe...and the calls to prayer here are very beautıful. I walked around a lot today and got a sımm card for my phone, ate a beautıful fısh sandwhıch on the waterfront whıle watchıng men fısh, ate roasted chessnuts whıle walkıng to any number of huge beautıful mosques to pray, bought some turkısh delıght, and ate donner kepap...Im ready to move. Serıously thıs place ıs quıte ıncredıble. It ıs huge a well wıth 15 mıl or so people so ı have seen only a breıf glımpse. It shouldnt be hard to spend a week or 2 here. Im also lookıng foward to seeıng the rest of the country but ıt wıll be hard to travel because of the festıval commeratıng the end of hajj ın the ıslamıc calander. Tomorrow I should be lınkıng wıth some frıends and have already made some here at the hostıl so all ıs well. More to come....

Leaving Tunisia like Luke left Tataouine

First of all soryy for the lack of photos lately but please check out the face book page to see all the albums of Tunisia.
Well I have been in Tunis a bit and then traveled back to Le Kef to visit my friend Nour's parents and the arcitects again, traveled with Nours friends to the north and saw beautiful scenery, and am now on the verge of leaving Tunisia for Turkey tomorrow. This has sparked both the normal anxiety of going somewhere new and sadness for leaving new friends. But mostly it has sparked contemplation, and Id like to share some thoughts about TUnisia with you; Wanna hear'em...here we go.
Tunisia is a spectacular place. For being such a small country it is jam packed zith interesting things to see. It is truely amazing to me that it is off the American tourist map. Off all the maps really. The country itself has to be one of the most beautifully diverse places ive been to. It resembles Arizona to me in this way. Mountains in the north, Mesas in the middle, and desert in the south. Except the north here looks like southern France or tuscany bordered by the Med.
The entire country is dotted with the most incredible roman ruins and it is not an uncommon sight to see sheep casually grazing amongst ruins while the passengers in the car or bus dont even notice them. The lanscape reminds me of New ,exico as it drys out and then flattens out into oaseses of palmtrees lining the open and vast...and intemidating, Sahara. The fruits are amazing. The food would cure any pepper feins fantasy. The people are very nice...they smoke alot but are nice. Coffe runs like water and is a sign of masculinity...tea is for women or older men who have earned the right to drink what ever they want. Fish is a plenty and cheap along the coast. Sweets are exactly that.
It is just that a month is a long time here. two three weeks would be good for a tourist to see everything. But all said and done Im glad I spent a month here. Im extremley happy I got to see all the sheeps being round up and sold for the big sacrifice in the Islamic calander. (if they only knew) Im glad I got to see this country that is completly Islamic but lacks extremism. The history here runs as deep as the religion and all the religions that came before it. Sufism is widespread here and saints tomds dot the skyline like small white clouds in a pure blue sky. People ask how you are 5 times like morocco and Mauritania. And you tell them thank God more times than that. Football (soccer) of course is the sport of choice qnd the kids have to be the cutest in the world. I met all the representations of the country. I rode with farmers, ate with the help, drank tea with foundation owners and elders, prayed with highly spiritualy eleveated people,was scared by border guards then comforted by them, conversated with kids, ate dates with the labourers, rode long distances with the middle class...what can I say. It has been good. On to Turkey.

rants and raves

So I'm quite sick of the fact that people feel they can take advantage of the fact that you are travelling as a tourist. Most of the time people feel that just because you are white and from Europe or America that you have tons of money to blow on things that are completly trival in the scheme of real life. For instance...I was in Jerba and I wanted to rent a bike. I went to a different hotel that was close to ask if there is a shop that was close in order to rent one. The man at the desk said yes and then got on the fun and called his friend to come an bring a bike. Im thinking great...I don't have to go far...what a nice guy. Then he says, "That will be on dinar for the phone call." I went off in arabic because if I would have known this I would have left and asked someone els who is nice and would tell me for the sake of niceness. But I gave it to him in Arabic and used religious language and then he got quite. I gave him the dollar but told him he needs to tell people ahead of time...will he listen...probably not. I had a few of these experiences but riding with the farmers and haveing taxis give me free rides because they are interested in my story is worth it I suppose.
After Jerba I made a long days travel to Mahdia which is another coastal town and a very nice one at that. By the way I got a haircut in Jerba and it has been the best one since Miguel cut it. These guys are very skilled here. So anyway I walked around the city and got some good photos and then left out the next morning to El Jem where there is a very nice roman ruined ampitheater. Really quite interesting. The same day I jumped on a train to Tunis and here I am. It is always nice to return to somewhere that you know a bit about. Ive been on short edge with the cabdrivers and such, expecting them to stiff me, but all is well. Im starting to anticipate my trip to Turkey now which is in one week. Ill try to keep busy until then.

sand sand and more sand and then beach

So victor, the chilean guy, did give me a boost and from Touezr I jumped in a shared taxi (which Im very good at now) and rode to a village named Tazouer in the morning, got some wonderful pictues of a ruined village and then shot back to Touzer where I caught a bus to Douz which is the "gateway to the Sahara." The ride was beautiful through varied oases of palm groves. It is Date harvest time so all the people are out picking and the markets are a buzzin with fiber. And so am I again thank God. nuff said. Douz is a strange Tourist place but is very cool at the same time. A friend of Nour's in the States hooked me up with her cousins and they showed me around on the back of a scooter and in a 4by4. The hotel was great and so were the people. It was market day on thurs. so I bought a new scrub glove for the shower (i love these things) and some dates, got my clothes washed and walked around the market where they sell the animals. Sad but fun.
I wanted to go to Matmata after that where there are Berber villages undergroundm that served as set for star wars. I was going to have to go the long way and take three shared taxis because there are no direct routes. But this guy who was estatic at my American Muslimness asked a friend of his if he could take me direct. I was a bit skepital at first ecause he said I didn't have to pay so I went to the shared taxi stand and started my route but then I got a call saying the car was leaving. I said a prayer and went. it turned out to be this cool old farmer returning to his village in this little old truck. Very cool experience. We passed by big Tour buses and I just thought how different of an experience this is for me compared to them.
I met some cool loder tourists from Canasa in Matmata and one of the women had done a trip like this when she was younger. From there I headed to Tatouine which is not very attractive and is on my bad list because I spent the most tourist dollars there. It is hard to bargin with these guys...they are good. But I went out in a taxi and saw some very interesing berber villages and had a conversation with a guy about the antichrist and some other interesting topics (weirdo) But all said and done The people were once again nice and I had good conversations with the young guy at my hotel and his friends in Arabic.
And then I went to Jerba. The friend of Nour's in Tunis, Her husbad's brother picked me up from the shared taxi station and fed me and helped me find my hotel. this is a very nice laid back place. I'm just glad its off season. The htel is beautiful and chep and I tried Lableby for the first time to day for breakfast. You crumble bread into a bowl and then they put olive oil beans some tomato sauce stuff and garlic with olives and a parlty bolied egg all together. Sounds nasty but after stirring it all together...it is the breakfast of Champions! or me! Loved it. Then I got the best haircut Ive had since Miguel with a straight razer shave and the works. for Eight dinars (about 5-6 bucks) very nice. That's it for now...dinner time...cous cous!

Funis in Tunis (errrrrrr????)

I wanted desperately to write more about Senegal and indeed I should but the time has somehow pass through my fingers like the last bits of rice and meat did all too many times. I should go for more shorter entries but for now you are subject to a longy. (Littletonese for long one) So I must leqve my 2 year old friend Cheikh Ali...who called me uncle in Wolof (I kept thinking he was saying give me and so I was a bit bitter but then caught a lump in the throught when I found out it meant uncle) and dear sweet friends at the daa'ra espically my new big sister Raissa (soory for spelling) who fixed my glasses, washed my clothes, made my dinner, all with a headache and a smile, my friend and new father Muhammed who I could barely communicate with but somehow managed to see all of Dakar with, the brains of the operation or at least blowhorn, Aisha (no one tell her that!) who educated me in many ways and between her and her husband made the whole experience possible...yes I leave them as words on paper and invite you to take me to tea or coffee (which I drink everyday now...sometimes several times throughout the day) and ask me about Senegal because it was truely one of my favorite places so far.
Tunisia has been a very interesting personal experience (like this whole trip isn't right?) I've managed to spend more tourist dollars here than anywhere else and I still have two weeks left. these people are amazing at the the abalities to get the money smoothly from you. That's why I'm not mad. I get blazing angry (as angry as Thomas can get) when they are blantly trying to screw you but if they have allready succeded and you realize it after the fact...wow...you're good. I've been to the most European city in the Middle east/N. Africa and caught stares from the tres chic as they sip their coffee's on the main ave. I've managed to buy perfumed oil at a higher price than I pay for it at home. I've wandered through ancient Islamic mosques and visted tombs of people who were alive and companions of the Prophet. I have made a million kids and young girls giggle...or flat out laugh...when I pass and say "how are you in Arabic". I froze my but off(which isn't much of one to begin with) with three arcitects from America and Canada (the other America) while being extemely afraid of border police taking us into the desert and stopping the car only to find out that there were taking us to the top of this extremley cool mountain with roman ruins on it because of the issues with algeria....whoo that was a long one. I managed to find a Chilean travel buddy who is also travelling around the world and travel the same distance from another city as I did just to collide in the desert and experience Star Wars sets together. I have been amazingly subdued this go round. Think I geeting tired but somehow I keep going. This chilean guy gave me a boost. He just goes from place to place on couch surfer and does give himself time to get homesick. So I'm following these footsteps. And it's working well. I'm whirling around the south right now and trying to make it back to the capital by the weekend. We'll see. I am having fun though. This is the important part. I still can't believe that I am doing this.

Ka Pout

Perhaps the highlight of Senegal, besides the people, was my trip to Pout. Pout is a village outside of Dakar where Cheikh Ali of the International Sufi School, Khdmitul Khadim, and his wife Ayesha are in the process of setting up a community for people of all faiths but right now is in the early phases. At the moment it is a farm...a very large farm...a very beautiful large farm where you really feel at ease and in Africa. All the Workers were great and extremely nice. Things qre done in q bqck to bqsic style of farming meaning that some tradtional tools are used as well as using what is artound you to make things work.
I actually got my hands dirty and got to work for a bit which was nice for a change to do something productive. But man was it hot!!! My favorite time of the day was mid mrnig senegalese tea break under a huge mango tree. And then lunch under the mango tree, and then qn nqp under the mango tree. These guys know how to respect the heat! I really respected the women and their work ethics. It was crazy how much they did in a day. They would come into the farm from the village on the horse cart and leave late in the day on the same cart. They were extemly nice to me and enjoyed the fact that I was there working. But my favorite worker was this big dude who was built for physical labour! He would hold these huge baild of hay up over his head while singing religious african style songs which really made work easier while listenting to them.
As the day would come to an end, the sun set would light up the country side in beautiful colors and I would eat peanuts fresh from the gound on the roof of the house while watching it all come to a close for the day.
Aysha wqs extemly nice to me and prepared dinners and made time to discuss all of the details of the peace and nonviolent aspects of which the sufi school teaches. Ill never forget this one. My friend Chou who kindof managed things walked to the road with me and we caught the bus back into Dakar for my last few days in Senegal. This all taught me to respect what I have and that I dont need much. I also taught me how to fold up in cars and buses for long periods of time! But seriously bqting from q bucket qnd working hard and remembering to remeber God while your working was a very important lesson for me and I hope to return to Senegal to help the situation of those who can't help them selves some day.

Cheikh Amadou Bamba

One of the reasons I came to Senegal was to find out more about the Mouridya Sufi movement which is very prevelant there and in fact is most probably the majority of muslims in Senegal. Many people don't get to hear about these groups because often times...and this is unfortuanatly the case here...People in mainstream Islam have a hared time dealing with the revernce of saints. The Mouridya is particularly interesting because their figure head, Chieikh Amadou Bamba, is daid to have contacted Muhammed personnaly as well as in recieve miricales from God. This is not so strange among the saints of Islam. However the Cheikh went through some very tough times with the French who were colonizing at the time and he was put into exile several times as well as circumstanses of sure death. He was accused of leading an armed rebellion against the French but this was the complete oppisite. The man embodied non violence. So much so that now the schools that have came in his footsteps teach not only nonviolence but the importance of one humanity through the examples of peacemakers all throught time and the world. (MLK, Ghandi, etc.) He eventually built a holy city in Senegal that was to be entirely devoted to the worship of God in order to be not in same rank of but the perfect servant of Muhammad (PBUH). There are many attacks on the Cheikh and the movement and Im not writing to say right or wrong, but I got a chance to tour these areas and see what is being done now in his vein of teaching and I have to say I have been waiting to see this within Islam for as Long as I have known it to be a religion.
I fisrt went to Dourjbell where the Cheikh lived and prayed and was taken into Exile...visions from the prophet etc. I love a beatiful mosque but I have a hang up on physical beauty over taking the meaning of the person but this case was different for me. The mosque where he prayed is beautiful and it is kept that way but we wnt to the room where he made his prayers ...and it is a specical place. The beauty only inhances this.
We then went to Touba...the holy city. Many things mirror Mecca and Madina which some people have problems with. But once again the place is very fancy and beautiful but I could not help but to feel a bit of specialness there. Phsycological maybye. For me the point was to fully embrace the concepts of non violence through the practice of Islam and have this man be an example of this and to see into what holds a nation of people together. These phenomanon are brilliant to me. Africa needed this man. Black Africans needed this man. Islam needed this man to show that race is truely unimportant. Other wise we are humans and we fall back into the same thinking patterns as we always do. Beyond prophetic examples are other human exapmples in the ways of these prophetic figures, it seems to me, to revive certain aspects of teaching that may have been pushed aside intentionally or unintentionally. There are fakes and frauds but it was beautifull seeing a unifing element for not just for Senegal but for others as well.

Cest Triste

One of the experiences that had quite a bit of impact on me was a trip to Isle de Goree. This is a very beautiful island off the coast of Dakar but its beauty is deceptive. This was one of the major ports for the slave trade and the home of the famous "door of no return." The buildings are gold and red...the gold built by the portuguese and the red by the dutch...and set against lush green tropical plants. There are no cars on the island so it is very peaceful. Many artists have set up bohemian shop there and quite a few rastas having givin it a very laid back friendly vibe.
I even knew that the islan was used for slave trade but it is difficult not to get sucked into its beauty. But my visions of beauty were quickly shattered when my friend Mohammed's friend lead us around and described to me in english the horrors that took place there. Families were seperated into men, women, and children. Young girls under 25 were all in one room and this gave me the shutters to think about what happened there. If the people were under 60 kilos...yes they were wieghed...they were fed peanuts to fatten them up. It is not ironic that one of Senegals main crops is peanuts which were imposed by the colonists in order to make a cash crop. Africans that agreed to keep watch over the prisinors before the door of no return were promised not to be sent off. I couldnt help what this must have felt like to be in either position...not wanting to be shipped off so you do a horrible task or to have your own people watching as you were shipped off.
There are memorials visited by Papa Bush and Clinton and the likes but I was sinical about any peice of concrete having enough meanigh to apologize for such acts. And so went the them of Senegal for me. You take the good with the bad because it is the whole package that is truelly beautiful. Ironic Huh

catching up again

So I am actually in Tunis now but Im going to try to describe the wonderful time I had in Senegal to the best of my abailities.
Senegal perhaps was the most different place I have been to to date. Mauritania was very different and was a good prelude but I could speak arabic a bit there. In Senegal there was a real outsider feeling I had allthough not from the treatment of the people. There are not many white people in Senegal so I was a bit of a spectacle espically for the kids but it wasn't just this. It was more of the fact that colonialism still runs in the memories of people and there seems to be a bit of a hesitancy toward meeting some of the folks. But Im not saying this because I think this is a bad thing...I think it is a warrented response to history. But if you show any bit of wanting to get to know someone the response is huge. I tried to learn a bit of Wolof as I went and this got some smiles. I really cant say enough about the hearts of these people. The African are sooooo hospitable. The feeling is very different from north africa to more central though. I think I liked Senegal the best so far because of the huge plus sides to the character of the people and also the huge downside to the poverty situation there. It was both exterems in your face and this was the intense part. But it was what I liked so much. It is just so different from America. No one eats alone. Genoristy and hospitality are genitically part of the culture. I just wish I knew French! So now Ill describe a few of my favorite parts but a little later...Im hungry.

Run for the Border

So I`m in the truck and we are tearing through the desert in a obvious hurry. The kid next to me gave the old lean forward lunge with full cheeks at which point I yelled to stop the car in Arabic and he let it fly once I got out. Ill be honest I was almost at that point my self. I thought I was going to die in a fliped truck in the middle of the desert thinking why didn`t I get on that plane. That actually became the theme song. We stopped in a village and had some drink (zariq...sweet milk drink) and tore back off. Just when I realized we were not going to hit a real road which we should have allready done if we were going via Noukchott we came to a town, stopped and I lost my Zariq. Emabarrasment aside that was worse than mister toad. I then realized we wer on the border waiting for the ferry to cross the river into Senegal. A border guard came over and talked to me and asked me if I was with Sheikh Hajj and I delt good at that point until he took my passport and said come back at three which I willingly said OK. We went to one of the sheikhs people`s house to eat where I made friends with one of the guys who was the only one to like that I was there. I was getting the cold shoulder otherwise. We get back to the border and the ferry is loading up but we can`t find the guy with my passport. And the money I had apparently wasn`t a whole lot or enough for a hotel (a good one at least) Then The guy showed up like I told you not to worry and gave me my passport back with it stamped which meant I my visa for Mauritania was done. The sheikh did have pull because I didn`t have to wai in any line or anything but man i was commited at this point. This is also where the othere shiekh from Senegal started telling everyone that he didn`t have room for me in his car. My new found friend was a bit upset with this. I told him I didn`t have a place to stay and as a true honest to God Muslim would do he said you will stay at my house for the night and then you can go to Dakar in the morning. Sweet Thank you God. Getting on to the ferry the Shiekh guy was like allright I did my part see you now go on the boat and leave me alone...but my money was being changed by one of Sheikh Hajj`s loyal followers so the other shiek guy gives me 5000CFA (not a whole lot but a bit) as if to really seal the deal. Good riddence to you too...I`m still a bit bitter.
Ahmed could have been nicer. We got to his village late at night and his brother came up welcoming me and his kdis too. We had some drink prayed and then rested a bit before food came. They are poor poor but still gave me all they had and put me in a mosiquito net inside there hut to rest peacefully. And I did.
Got up for the morning prayer and got ready to shove off. We called Ayisha in Dakar with the Muridya tariqa and she explained how to get to the school/home where I would stay. Ok next step. Ahmed puts me in a cab and tells me to go to St. louis where Ill catch a bus to Dakar. I did that. But the buses here are white vans that are crazy cramed but cheap and I did it for like 5 or 6 hours. The people coming into Dakar were half and half about me. The young guys runnig the bus cared less but some other people helped me get to where I was going even though I couldnt communicate with anyone at this point. In fact this one woman got off the bus bought a phone card for me and called the people...got into a cab with me and made darn sure the guy knew where to take me. God bless that woman. I got here and here I am. Well fed, well rested and am being shown around by these wonderful people. I am looking forward to learnig more about the philosophies and holy cities which they are going to show me as well as the plans for a physical place for multifaiths to live in senegal. God bless these people.

Last call for Mauritania yall

I just hung out in Noukchott for a few days. The amount of time it takes to travel and the uncomfortablity factor made me downright lazy. I actually tried to go to Chinguiti which is a very old Islamic powerhouse town which was something I wanted to do but when the Senegalese guy (who I was going to ride with) and I pulled up my white skin made the price go up 2000 ougiya. So I left so the whole car wouldn`t have to suffer the whity tax. I was actually running low on cash as well seeing that there are no Atms in Mauritania that would take my card. I should say THE ATM in Mauritania wouldn`t take my card. But Isa and I had been invited out to an educational confrence in the village of Mauta Maulana where the Tidjyanni shiekh Shiekh Hajj Mishry runs his school (and the village). I had met Sheikh Hajj earlier in Noukchott and he had told me that I could ride down to Senegal with some people who were coming in for the confrence if I liked so I figured I would give that a shot.
Isa and I paid more to ride in the back of a Trooper like vehichle which was cramped but still better than the back of a Toyota risking loss of the feeling of you butt for a week. Actually loss of feeling would have been good. By the way thanks for riding out there Isa...it was good to have you around the last few days. So we got out to the village at night after a flat tire and repair of the flat. But being a festivity the food was a flowin. We also got put up in a very nice home and slept out on the roof (mosquito net required) (Isa eating Wheatabix) The confrence was a yawnfrence. No but it was enjoyable to see how things are orginized or not. Sheikh Hajj was clearly the starr of the show and we got to meet the whose who of local sheikhs of his order. Some sheikh are wonderful spiritual men...others know they are shiekhs. I`m sorry but I had a bit of a bad taste left in my mouth because classism is alive and well in Mauritania and some people worship the ground these guys walk on and don`t get too much back. Others ride the coat tails and eat thier food which the shiekhs are willing to feed anyone. this would make me bitter too.
I had decided to go back to Noukchott and wait for my plane but then after breakfast the shiekh from Senegal called me outside and said to get in the truck. I wasn`t even ready but my inabaliity to say no kicked in and I found my self rushing back to the house throwing my things together and hoping into a squeezed truck hoping I could get off in Noukchott but it wasn`t long that I realized we were headed straight for the border.
The sunsets on Mauritania.
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Picture catch up

First night sleeping experience...and really the whole time in Mauritania...except under the stars for most of the nights because its HOT!

There is no skyline to show in Noukchott so I`ll show you what you see...everywhere


Kids studying Quran at the school on Nabighyia...also where I slept

The truck was half full at this point...I thought it was done...There were 30 people on the way back!!!

A sideways version of Sheikh bah`s Mosque in Nabighyia

Nabigyeeeaaaahh

Isa, my new found helped me out quite a bit and had since put me on a truck for the village of nabighyia where my friends study at an Islamic school there. The Shiekh is very well known for his knowledge and his seven teachers who are scholars in their own rights. So I headed out on this truck which was first packed with things like boxes qnd such. Then we piled on top for the ride out. I though there would be a limit to how many people ride on it but there isn't. The limit is until people almost fall off. Ive never ridden precariously perched on top of a truck for two hours before and I couldn't feel my but for three days after but it was worth the ride. We traveld through checkpoints and dunes to get to the village which is well placed in the middle of the desert. We pulled in and I thought I was going to yell for joy when I jumped off and went looking for the house of Benjamin from England who was studying in the village. He wasnt home at fisrt so i moved toward the Shiekh's mosque as instructed by Isa qnd Abdel malik and was shown into the home. Most the shiekhs were away but they told me to sit and drink some sweet milk called zariq, my new friend, which was more than welcome after two hours of sun and wind.
I was introduced to benjamin who was very nice and welcoming and we spent the next few days talking religion and meeting the old wise people in the village which was a spectacular experience. I became more interested in what to focus my future learnings on and just took in the desert scenery. It was very hot but Muslims don't go three minutes with out offering you something to drink. I met some of the students who were great and got to eat amazing meals at the shiekh's house.
All of the Islamic sciences are studyied here and the students are very dilligent. They live extemly simple but free and the lessons are free as well. Just the desire to dedicate must be paid. It is very humbleing qnd bqck to nqture to live qlong donkeys, camels, and goats. Bugs and lack of showers and beds is also part of the simplicity. I liked it. I didn't really want to go back to the city but alas it was time.
I said farewell to Nabighyia and benjamin and I headed off on the once again insanly packed truck bac to Noukchott.

Man its hot here!!!

Ok...I haven't been able to keep up with the blog the way that I would like too but c'est la vie. I am going to go ahead and fast forward past the last days of Morocco which were nice but fairly uneventful. I basically said goodbye to my new found friends and relaxed on the beaches of Essouria until I left for Mauritania.
Here is where I begin.
I was unusually calm on the flight over although it was at 11:30 at night and I had some coffe before I left so was wide awake at 2:30 when the plane landed in Mauritania. I didn't know what to expect but the capitol city's (Noukchott) airport was very small and a bit of a free for all. Thkis was no big deal because Egypt was not much different. However Casa Balnca's airport and Morocco's transportation system had grown on me and left me with slightly higher expectations of Mauritania. I had planned to sleep at the airport because it was so late but...the airport isn't necessarily conducive of a good nights sleep. I tried haggeling with the taxi drivers knowing I shouldn't pay more than 1000 ognyia for the ride to the hostile style residence but was tired and agreed to pay more that...700 more than that. But at 250 to 1 I still felt ok about it.
My friends told me this is a different place but you never know a statement like that until you are there. Mauritania is very poor. Very poor. Not much money is put into the things like parks and roadways or even city planning. I got to the hostile place which turned out to be more like camping on the rooftop. Literally. but for what I wanted to pay this was the deal...and it was clean camping. My friend Abdel malik had told me about this place soI brought that up to the guy and exchanged friendlies that go along with having a mutual friend. Even though it was 3 in the morning and it was still very hot. But all I was concerned with was a mosquito net which there was in the hut which I rented.
When I woke up I realized how different this was.Noukchott is also a very dirty place. Which is qllright but it really does make you sick to your stomach after awhile to see and smell all kinds of garbage decomposing all over the streets and sides of the roads. I didn't sleep much because of the flight but did manage to squeeze out some hours of shut eye well after the morning prayer and closer to sunrise. I then caught a cab to "downtown" to this moswue I read about in Lonely planet and realized once I asked which street I was on that no one knew. The city isn't developed like other cities so it is very hard to circumnavigate and in fact locals don't use street name the only use landmarks to get from place to place. This kind of frustrated me because I like to get oriented on a map so that I can keep busy with finding places and feel acomplished as well. I realized how hard this was going to be so I found a internet cafe on the corner and decided to retreat to the comforts of connecting to those who I now and catching up on email.
In the cybe cafe I heard an American accent dressed in local islamic Sahara clothing and decided to ask where he was from. It turns out that Isa (african american guy from California) knew Abdel Malik (the guy from fes) and he said not to worry from there on out and that I could stay with him. Wow. I then read an Email from Abdel Malik which said to get in contact with a guy named Isa who was now sitting next to me. Double wow. God is good. We then hung out for the day meeting Sheikhs and friends from Kentucky (I know...go figure) and even had a hamburger and some donuts shortly after! Ill fill you in on the rest in a bit! Pics coming soon.

Marafresh

Well unfortunatly quite a bit of time has passed since I entered the last blog. After a long but peaceful train ride into Marakesh, I was pleasantly met by Hamza who had been the one who introduced me to Abdel Malek in Fes. He actully had car which was nice for a change. We picked up some groceries (at a bonified grocery store no doubt) and then went off to his house. For some reason Marakesh looks fake to me...Like over done California stucco arcitecture or something. But his neighborhood was very nice, and once again like Jojo's in Phoenix it was nice to be in a domesticated atmosphere. He and his extremely nice wife have three beautiful children which were gems. He is very involved in the Sufi community in Marakesh and so after we broke fast there was a beautiful dhikr (rememerence of God) session at his house where I also met Mohamed Yaqub-an American convert from northern California.
The next day I was wacked out tired so I slept most the day but upon waking up from a nap a pinched a nerve in my neck which completly locked up all the muscles in my upper back! Like an idiot I tried to play basketball later on and made it worse. The whole next day I laid in bed basically.
Eventually I made it out the day after and went to the major tourist/shopping area with Yaqub. Marakesh is the worst of the tourist areas because of the amount of effort that goes towards taking foriegners money. Never the less we found some good deals on leather sandals which are staple footwear around here. When you take your footgear off everytime you enter a house or mosque...they are necessary. But really besides the wonderful experience of staying with Hamza and later with Yaqub the parts of Marakesh that peoplke come to see are not my cup of tea.
Well the month of Ramadaan came and went and has left a bit of a hole in my life. Who would ever think that you would miss fasting. But alas it is true. In such a discipined month one finds an incredible amount of happiness and sharing which I have yet to be topped. The Eid...Clebration at the end of the month...was great. Abdl Malek made it down from Fes on his way to London which was a treat to get to see him again. The prayer took place outside with litealy tens of thousands of people. Later we got together at Hamza's for a very nice Lunch with a lot of his friends and family. Having coffe in the daytime was nice as was a large glass of water. You literally forget what it is like to eat durring the day.
I could not have asked for a better month with better people. It is one for the record books for sure.

Experiences

I have since moved on through Rabat again and on to Marrakesh. But I would like to take the time to catch up on some experiences I've had.
One of the most moving experiences was when I was praying the afternoon prayer in Fes. It was a normal afternoon prayer in the mosque in the neighborhood where I was living. (in the midevil part of the city) The people there are simple, hard working and without most of the modern conveniences which I for one am used to. I walked over the horse and donkey dung, up the narrow dirt ally, past the fountain where both children and horses were getting a drink in to the mosque. It is situated on a hill with an amazing view of Old Fes. I went to wash in the fountain in the courtyard for prayer among the local men. The prayers began in the open air mosque and ended as usual. However after the prayers ended I noticed commotion in the center of the mosque. There was a body being brought in on a wooden stretcher wrapped in a beautiful green textile with Quranic verses embroidered on it in gold. I realized right away that it was a corpse and a very strange feeling came over me. Everyone stood and we then retook our positions in the ranks and prayed the funeral prayer for the deceased. I had never done this and was actually taken aback by the experience. The body was then taken to the graveyard but I did not follow. It was such a simple yet reverent process. No parades no massive flowers. Just this mans body and the congregation. And whether you knew him or not you stopped to pray for him. Very moving.

Fes Fotos

Sweets for breaking fast.
Me drinking Tea at Zubair's house.
The oh so reassuring structure of the old city. This picture is also accompanyed by the smell of buring electric devices which pop and spark when it rains.
The old city of Fes. Right outside of my gracious host Abdel Malik's place.
The craftsmanship.

Feservation for 1 contd...

So sorry again but I haven't been on the camera ball in Fes. This place is still blowing me away. I walked around the new city a bit today and the difference is insane. The old city really is like living in ancient times. I have to admidt that the grid structure of the european style with a main avenue made me feel relaxed. Perhaps because in city atmospheres you don' really have to worry about people bothering you. There are plenty of banks and stores...a bit of realibilty I suppose. But in the old city it's the people who are fantastic. I came to one of the main gates and it took me an hour and a half to go a hundred yards. Not because I got lost this time but because people kept pulling me aside to talk. There is this old man who is facinated by me being muslim. We tryed to talk for a very long time. Sweet old man. There were two young guys as well one of which has a fiance from Tucson! Small world.
Being able to stay in my friends apartment has been great. I've been under the weather so its been nice to lay low. I actually cooked tonight which was a nice change. Going to the market to buy fresh stuff is the best. Super cheap by American standards as well. I did have to fight off a cockroach the size of a surfboard though. Cest la vie. Bugs are a part of life here.
Fez is mostly craftsmen. Which is very cool. Every where you go you look into a room and see men making jalabeeyas or sandals or metal artwork. The craftsmanship is incredible. All the production shops are off of the the tourist stroll where I live. There is also a school right on the ally where the apartment is so it can get noisy but cute. The amount of religious study here is amazing as well. Al Qaraween university and mosque have been stong centers of Islamic learning since the 12th century. That is why it is hard to take flicks here. It is just a beehive of life that is almost better if not better left to experience. It will be hard to leave.

Feservation for one

The road to Fes was a long one. I jumped on another local bus company because the CTM company was full (but then a ticket mysteriously opened up when i got to the train station and was looking at the other company) The off brand was leaving earlier so I went but not after getting hit on by some nasty perv guy who wanted me to travel to his town with him. Not cool. Then there was a huge fight on the bus. Moroccons are very emotional people...kissing , hugging...yelling.Usually that is all that is. I have noticed a real primal need to be heard first and loudest in order to assert dominance and everyone does it not just men. I sat back and watched this huge drama unfold which eventually lead the bus driver to pulling the bus over like in highschool or JR high. When one of the guys did get off the bus I looked over qnd he had a rock in his hand. Half the bus emptied to be evolved...except me and the spanish couple.
All was well though qnd we arrived to fes which is a swirl of history and poverty and dusty wind on that day. A friend of a friend picked ,e up at the bus station and has put me up in the flat he is borrowing for the last 3 days. We also attended a break fast at a prominant sufis house and then went to a gathering later on. it was unreal. Kind of like people being fillied with the holy ghost in Christianity. Well the cyber cafe is shutting down so ill finish this later.

Chefchoun (Too nice for a funky title)

So the bus ride was...not bad but long. I took a smaller bus company which left from near by the hotel in Asilah. It was a total local Greyhound type of thing. The bus was packed (as usual for Moroccon transportation) but I got there super early so I got a seat. I was told that it was a direct bus to Tetoun which is directly east of Asilah and also where I would switch buses to Chefchoun. I might have been too early or something because we went to Tangeir first which I was trying to avoid. But it was ok. After arriving in Tetoun (which I made sure to ask if that was it...and I can read the Arabic signs now...Thank you UW) The bus to Chefchoun was right in front of us so no problem transfering. The funny thing is the baggage fee varies with what you have in your hand so this time it was 10 because I gave him a 20 as a opposed to five for the previous (and longer) ride. Whateves.
I was a bit scared of getting car sick but it was ok. Mountain travel on a packed bus can be tough. No problems though. We arrived in Chefchoun and there were no taxis which is rare and the hills here have seattle matched. I walked up one and found some English speaking backpackers who gave me the general direction. I found a cab and then headed to the hotel. I haven't been calling ahead because there doesn't seem to be a need to. But this place is crawling with tourists and backpackers trekking in the nearby mountains. The first place I went only had a shared room right off of a parlor where there was a lot of smoke and talking. Lots of young hostel types too. I must be getting older because I just want to be left alone (at least right away.) Long story short...the guy moved me after I threatened to look for another place but then after walking around a bit got bumped back to the bad room because a family had a res. I was a bit upset so set out to find anther one which most were full. Found one but then I went to pray the evening prayer and break my fast...Calmed down and then right then a guy in the mosque told me I was going to eat with him. He was a very nice Iraqi man from Norway who spoke English. He then took me to his hotel where he is staying for all of Ramadaan and introduced me to the staff and we ate together. Then He talked the people in to letting me stay there for 60 dirhams a night which is like 8 bucks. The rooms are simple and run down and the bathrooms have seen better days but it is allright. We ate dinner later on and then our morning meal which he has the staff prepare special for him. Goat cheese and bread with butter olives Hhoney and sweets...all kins of yuminess.
I went with the market today with him as well and he introduced me to all his friens and showed me the best way to buy eggs and all kinds of things. What a blessing. Right at a low spot. Seems to be happening alot lately.
The town is gorgoues as it is set at the base of the mountains. Espically at night. We sat outside the mosque and talked last night...good stuff. The allyways and doors are National Geographic like. I'm debating staying a 3rd day or heading for Fes where there are some people I talked to there to meet. I'll let you know.

Like water to a fish

I arrived in Asilah which is just south of Tanja and was automatically in love. It is something about small ocean towns that grabs me. Tourism is heavy here so of course there ws a tout (guy who tries to get you to go to his hotel or shop) right off the train. Annoying but managable. I wandered the town until I found my small hotel which is nice and cheap. The rooms remind me of a monestary or something in there simplicity but it's like 14 US dollars a day. The people are really nice as well. I have this knack so far of making friends with the older Muslim desk guys. In fact this guy invited me into his little room and fed me and I bought him a liter of coke which we shared. He kept overflowing the glass caus of the bubbles which amused me greatly. He speaks like 4 languages and is really sleepy in the way he speaks.

I relaxed a lot here. I spent three days and ate some really good fish prepared in a morrocon dish and walked around quite a bit to see where this fish come from. I made friends with another guy in the mosque but he worried me a bit more than my buddy Fouad so I kept my distance. He was allright but a bit preachy.

My arms fot enough sun to look Morrocon by now which is fine by me. I went in to a bakery and there bees all over but no one seems to care. It freaked me out...but the bread ws still really good. I like the small towns, they are a nice break but cities are a bit more accomidating. I also met a barber here and had my beard trimmed up a bit. The whole place is beautiful and reminded me what typ of atmosphere I would eventually like to live in. Tomorrow is a 6:30 bus to the mountain town of Chefchouan. Mark your maps...I'm on the move.

Nice to Ken-eet-ra

My Rabat portion of the voyage ended well. I recieved the visa from the Mauratanian embassy which was funny in and of itself. I didn't fill out half of the form because of the French/Arabic stuff and the guys were like "whatever." They asked for an adress in Mauratania and I said I would be staying in hotels so they said write "hotel" then. Quite the beuracracy. I'm sure it was more about the 200 dirhams that it cost.
I met this young guy named Fouad in the mosque one night and we became instantanious friends. He loves the Japanese culture and swears that he is half Moroccon half Japanese. : ) He even uses terms like "in Japan we say... " Very funny. Amazing person and he showed me all around Rabat and then he mentioned that he was going to visit an old friend in Kenitra. I told him that I was going to go there to visit the place where my father had been in the military even if it had changed. He told me in very typical Moroccon/Islamic fashion, "You will stay with us." I told him I would get a hotel and maybe we could get together for break-fast. The next day I finished up laundry and then jumped on a train to Kenitra. I sent him a text saying I was headed up there and I'll call him later. No less than a few minutes later I get a call from him telling me to get off at the first station (which was good caus I thought there was only one station) Long story short he and his friend took me back to his friends house and I stayed the night and met the family. We ate (well). Homeade Moroccon food is the stuff dreams are made from. We broke fast and went to the mosque and then I let the young friend talk me and my buddy into going with him to a "club."
Moroccon clubing is more of a testrone fest than anything else. It was a bunch of guys drinking soda pop playing billiards and smoking like chimanies. Loud musiq and a lot of starring...my type of night. My buddy Fouad is more religious than his friend and it is clear thay are kind of growing apart in this way. Suhair was more concerned with Tu-pac and MTV than reciting the Quran. Nevertheless it was an experience. We then went back and ate a late night meal which was great. His family is very sweet and well off so it was a treat to stay in their house. Suhair (the young friend ) was in slumber party mode and wouldn't let us sleep. But it was a great chance to see a real suburan neighborhood and watch kdis play soccer int the street and such. God bless that boy's parents. Tooo nice.
The next night I slept in a hotel. Downtown kenitra is shadey and not on Lonely Planet's top ten list for sure. I was safe though. I think that a few fights have broken and a few more drugs have been done since my dad was here in the sixties. I was glad to leave the next morning and head off for Asilah which is a small coastal town just south of Tangiers (Tanga in Arabic) popular with the Euro crowd. Beach time.

More Rabat Photos

Beautiful ally, Kids Fishing


Guard of tomd Muhammed V

Guess who

Women walking
Check out my Facebook page for the full albulms along the left hand side of the page. Just do asearch for Thomas Littleton.

Experience this

So I've been in Rabat long enough to stop the play by play action for a bit and share some of these great sights and smells with you. Photos on the way but this will be all written.

I've been really excited to play human frogger again. For those of you who don't know my Cairo experiences...human frogger (yes the Atari game) is aka crossing the street. It's also like human tetris. You have to have good spacial awarness and risk will pay off with a quicker dispatch of the body to the other side of the street to where you want to go. Standing in the middle of the street while cars pass on either side is all right. Or the stop go method works very well too. Stop...let a car pass. Go. Stop...let a car pass. I absolutly love it. It's clear that there is no such of a thing as a jay walking ticket here. And I love it.

Pollution and dust I do not love.

The kids here like to rollerblade at top speeds through completly packed sidewalks espically at night through ramadaan crowds. There is a real letting things happen around you type of thing going on with me.

The beggers are...poorer than any begger in the US by far. I have seen some horrible deformities that automatically make the hand go for the pocket. Espically in the old market here. But this is counter balanced by the smells of nuts and spices. The beautiful colors of vegtables and fruits...leathers and shoes.

The mint tea here really is the good stuff...but not to be taken to close to bed time. And the Sweets...they deserve a capital S! Oh my God! I'm suprided the country is not on UN diabetic assistence. But I'm not compaining.

The people...people are people, but some of the nicest in the world live in this country. It really is quite western in a lot of ways in Rabat which is good and bad but it is all good.

The angry taxi driver today had me gripping my seat when he drove on the other side of the roead to escape traffic facing oncoming cars! But you just got to let it happen man!

Rabat Photos

Ave. Mohammed V...at like 12am this is packed. Mohammed V Mosoleaum

Fountain in cortyad of hotel Maakdoonaaldz...No I didn't eat there.



Rabat