So I`m in the truck and we are tearing through the desert in a obvious hurry. The kid next to me gave the old lean forward lunge with full cheeks at which point I yelled to stop the car in Arabic and he let it fly once I got out. Ill be honest I was almost at that point my self. I thought I was going to die in a fliped truck in the middle of the desert thinking why didn`t I get on that plane. That actually became the theme song. We stopped in a village and had some drink (zariq...sweet milk drink) and tore back off. Just when I realized we were not going to hit a real road which we should have allready done if we were going via Noukchott we came to a town, stopped and I lost my Zariq. Emabarrasment aside that was worse than mister toad. I then realized we wer on the border waiting for the ferry to cross the river into Senegal. A border guard came over and talked to me and asked me if I was with Sheikh Hajj and I delt good at that point until he took my passport and said come back at three which I willingly said OK. We went to one of the sheikhs people`s house to eat where I made friends with one of the guys who was the only one to like that I was there. I was getting the cold shoulder otherwise. We get back to the border and the ferry is loading up but we can`t find the guy with my passport. And the money I had apparently wasn`t a whole lot or enough for a hotel (a good one at least) Then The guy showed up like I told you not to worry and gave me my passport back with it stamped which meant I my visa for Mauritania was done. The sheikh did have pull because I didn`t have to wai in any line or anything but man i was commited at this point. This is also where the othere shiekh from Senegal started telling everyone that he didn`t have room for me in his car. My new found friend was a bit upset with this. I told him I didn`t have a place to stay and as a true honest to God Muslim would do he said you will stay at my house for the night and then you can go to Dakar in the morning. Sweet Thank you God. Getting on to the ferry the Shiekh guy was like allright I did my part see you now go on the boat and leave me alone...but my money was being changed by one of Sheikh Hajj`s loyal followers so the other shiek guy gives me 5000CFA (not a whole lot but a bit) as if to really seal the deal. Good riddence to you too...I`m still a bit bitter.
Ahmed could have been nicer. We got to his village late at night and his brother came up welcoming me and his kdis too. We had some drink prayed and then rested a bit before food came. They are poor poor but still gave me all they had and put me in a mosiquito net inside there hut to rest peacefully. And I did.
Got up for the morning prayer and got ready to shove off. We called Ayisha in Dakar with the Muridya tariqa and she explained how to get to the school/home where I would stay. Ok next step. Ahmed puts me in a cab and tells me to go to St. louis where Ill catch a bus to Dakar. I did that. But the buses here are white vans that are crazy cramed but cheap and I did it for like 5 or 6 hours. The people coming into Dakar were half and half about me. The young guys runnig the bus cared less but some other people helped me get to where I was going even though I couldnt communicate with anyone at this point. In fact this one woman got off the bus bought a phone card for me and called the people...got into a cab with me and made darn sure the guy knew where to take me. God bless that woman. I got here and here I am. Well fed, well rested and am being shown around by these wonderful people. I am looking forward to learnig more about the philosophies and holy cities which they are going to show me as well as the plans for a physical place for multifaiths to live in senegal. God bless these people.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Last call for Mauritania yall
I just hung out in Noukchott for a few days. The amount of time it takes to travel and the uncomfortablity factor made me downright lazy. I actually tried to go to Chinguiti which is a very old Islamic powerhouse town which was something I wanted to do but when the Senegalese guy (who I was going to ride with) and I pulled up my white skin made the price go up 2000 ougiya. So I left so the whole car wouldn`t have to suffer the whity tax. I was actually running low on cash as well seeing that there are no Atms in Mauritania that would take my card. I should say THE ATM in Mauritania wouldn`t take my card. But Isa and I had been invited out to an educational confrence in the village of Mauta Maulana 
where the Tidjyanni shiekh Shiekh Hajj Mishry runs his school (and the village). 
I had met Sheikh Hajj earlier in Noukchott and he had told me that I could ride down to Senegal with some people who were coming in for the confrence if I liked so I figured I would give that a shot.
Isa and I paid more to ride in the back of a Trooper like vehichle which was cramped but still better than the back of a Toyota risking loss of the feeling of you butt for a week. Actually loss of feeling would have been good. By the way thanks for riding out there Isa...it was good to have you around the last few days. So we got out to the village at night after a flat tire and repair of the flat. But being a festivity the food was a flowin. We also got put up in a very nice home and slept out on the roof (mosquito net required)
(Isa eating Wheatabix) The confrence was a yawnfrence. No but it was enjoyable to see how things are orginized or not. Sheikh Hajj was clearly the starr of the show and we got to meet the whose who of local sheikhs of his order. Some sheikh are wonderful spiritual men...others know they are shiekhs. I`m sorry but I had a bit of a bad taste left in my mouth because classism is alive and well in Mauritania and some people worship the ground these guys walk on and don`t get too much back. Others ride the coat tails and eat thier food which the shiekhs are willing to feed anyone. this would make me bitter too.
I had decided to go back to Noukchott and wait for my plane but then after breakfast the shiekh from Senegal called me outside and said to get in the truck. I wasn`t even ready but my inabaliity to say no kicked in and I found my self rushing back to the house throwing my things together and hoping into a squeezed truck hoping I could get off in Noukchott but it wasn`t long that I realized we were headed straight for the border.
The sunsets on Mauritania.
.
where the Tidjyanni shiekh Shiekh Hajj Mishry runs his school (and the village). 
I had met Sheikh Hajj earlier in Noukchott and he had told me that I could ride down to Senegal with some people who were coming in for the confrence if I liked so I figured I would give that a shot.Isa and I paid more to ride in the back of a Trooper like vehichle which was cramped but still better than the back of a Toyota risking loss of the feeling of you butt for a week. Actually loss of feeling would have been good. By the way thanks for riding out there Isa...it was good to have you around the last few days. So we got out to the village at night after a flat tire and repair of the flat. But being a festivity the food was a flowin. We also got put up in a very nice home and slept out on the roof (mosquito net required)
(Isa eating Wheatabix) The confrence was a yawnfrence. No but it was enjoyable to see how things are orginized or not. Sheikh Hajj was clearly the starr of the show and we got to meet the whose who of local sheikhs of his order. Some sheikh are wonderful spiritual men...others know they are shiekhs. I`m sorry but I had a bit of a bad taste left in my mouth because classism is alive and well in Mauritania and some people worship the ground these guys walk on and don`t get too much back. Others ride the coat tails and eat thier food which the shiekhs are willing to feed anyone. this would make me bitter too.I had decided to go back to Noukchott and wait for my plane but then after breakfast the shiekh from Senegal called me outside and said to get in the truck. I wasn`t even ready but my inabaliity to say no kicked in and I found my self rushing back to the house throwing my things together and hoping into a squeezed truck hoping I could get off in Noukchott but it wasn`t long that I realized we were headed straight for the border.
The sunsets on Mauritania.
.
Picture catch up
First night sleeping experience...and really the whole time in Mauritania...except under the stars for most of the nights because its HOT!
There is no skyline to show in Noukchott so I`ll show you what you see...everywhere
Kids studying Quran at the school on Nabighyia...also where I slept
The truck was half full at this point...I thought it was done...There were 30 people on the way back!!!
A sideways version of Sheikh bah`s Mosque in Nabighyia
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Nabigyeeeaaaahh
Isa, my new found helped me out quite a bit and had since put me on a truck for the village of nabighyia where my friends study at an Islamic school there. The Shiekh is very well known for his knowledge and his seven teachers who are scholars in their own rights. So I headed out on this truck which was first packed with things like boxes qnd such. Then we piled on top for the ride out. I though there would be a limit to how many people ride on it but there isn't. The limit is until people almost fall off. Ive never ridden precariously perched on top of a truck for two hours before and I couldn't feel my but for three days after but it was worth the ride. We traveld through checkpoints and dunes to get to the village which is well placed in the middle of the desert. We pulled in and I thought I was going to yell for joy when I jumped off and went looking for the house of Benjamin from England who was studying in the village. He wasnt home at fisrt so i moved toward the Shiekh's mosque as instructed by Isa qnd Abdel malik and was shown into the home. Most the shiekhs were away but they told me to sit and drink some sweet milk called zariq, my new friend, which was more than welcome after two hours of sun and wind.
I was introduced to benjamin who was very nice and welcoming and we spent the next few days talking religion and meeting the old wise people in the village which was a spectacular experience. I became more interested in what to focus my future learnings on and just took in the desert scenery. It was very hot but Muslims don't go three minutes with out offering you something to drink. I met some of the students who were great and got to eat amazing meals at the shiekh's house.
All of the Islamic sciences are studyied here and the students are very dilligent. They live extemly simple but free and the lessons are free as well. Just the desire to dedicate must be paid. It is very humbleing qnd bqck to nqture to live qlong donkeys, camels, and goats. Bugs and lack of showers and beds is also part of the simplicity. I liked it. I didn't really want to go back to the city but alas it was time.
I said farewell to Nabighyia and benjamin and I headed off on the once again insanly packed truck bac to Noukchott.
I was introduced to benjamin who was very nice and welcoming and we spent the next few days talking religion and meeting the old wise people in the village which was a spectacular experience. I became more interested in what to focus my future learnings on and just took in the desert scenery. It was very hot but Muslims don't go three minutes with out offering you something to drink. I met some of the students who were great and got to eat amazing meals at the shiekh's house.
All of the Islamic sciences are studyied here and the students are very dilligent. They live extemly simple but free and the lessons are free as well. Just the desire to dedicate must be paid. It is very humbleing qnd bqck to nqture to live qlong donkeys, camels, and goats. Bugs and lack of showers and beds is also part of the simplicity. I liked it. I didn't really want to go back to the city but alas it was time.
I said farewell to Nabighyia and benjamin and I headed off on the once again insanly packed truck bac to Noukchott.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Man its hot here!!!
Ok...I haven't been able to keep up with the blog the way that I would like too but c'est la vie. I am going to go ahead and fast forward past the last days of Morocco which were nice but fairly uneventful. I basically said goodbye to my new found friends and relaxed on the beaches of Essouria until I left for Mauritania.
Here is where I begin.
I was unusually calm on the flight over although it was at 11:30 at night and I had some coffe before I left so was wide awake at 2:30 when the plane landed in Mauritania. I didn't know what to expect but the capitol city's (Noukchott) airport was very small and a bit of a free for all. Thkis was no big deal because Egypt was not much different. However Casa Balnca's airport and Morocco's transportation system had grown on me and left me with slightly higher expectations of Mauritania. I had planned to sleep at the airport because it was so late but...the airport isn't necessarily conducive of a good nights sleep. I tried haggeling with the taxi drivers knowing I shouldn't pay more than 1000 ognyia for the ride to the hostile style residence but was tired and agreed to pay more that...700 more than that. But at 250 to 1 I still felt ok about it.
My friends told me this is a different place but you never know a statement like that until you are there. Mauritania is very poor. Very poor. Not much money is put into the things like parks and roadways or even city planning. I got to the hostile place which turned out to be more like camping on the rooftop. Literally. but for what I wanted to pay this was the deal...and it was clean camping. My friend Abdel malik had told me about this place soI brought that up to the guy and exchanged friendlies that go along with having a mutual friend. Even though it was 3 in the morning and it was still very hot. But all I was concerned with was a mosquito net which there was in the hut which I rented.
When I woke up I realized how different this was.Noukchott is also a very dirty place. Which is qllright but it really does make you sick to your stomach after awhile to see and smell all kinds of garbage decomposing all over the streets and sides of the roads. I didn't sleep much because of the flight but did manage to squeeze out some hours of shut eye well after the morning prayer and closer to sunrise. I then caught a cab to "downtown" to this moswue I read about in Lonely planet and realized once I asked which street I was on that no one knew. The city isn't developed like other cities so it is very hard to circumnavigate and in fact locals don't use street name the only use landmarks to get from place to place. This kind of frustrated me because I like to get oriented on a map so that I can keep busy with finding places and feel acomplished as well. I realized how hard this was going to be so I found a internet cafe on the corner and decided to retreat to the comforts of connecting to those who I now and catching up on email.
In the cybe cafe I heard an American accent dressed in local islamic Sahara clothing and decided to ask where he was from. It turns out that Isa (african american guy from California) knew Abdel Malik (the guy from fes) and he said not to worry from there on out and that I could stay with him. Wow. I then read an Email from Abdel Malik which said to get in contact with a guy named Isa who was now sitting next to me. Double wow. God is good. We then hung out for the day meeting Sheikhs and friends from Kentucky (I know...go figure) and even had a hamburger and some donuts shortly after! Ill fill you in on the rest in a bit! Pics coming soon.
Here is where I begin.
I was unusually calm on the flight over although it was at 11:30 at night and I had some coffe before I left so was wide awake at 2:30 when the plane landed in Mauritania. I didn't know what to expect but the capitol city's (Noukchott) airport was very small and a bit of a free for all. Thkis was no big deal because Egypt was not much different. However Casa Balnca's airport and Morocco's transportation system had grown on me and left me with slightly higher expectations of Mauritania. I had planned to sleep at the airport because it was so late but...the airport isn't necessarily conducive of a good nights sleep. I tried haggeling with the taxi drivers knowing I shouldn't pay more than 1000 ognyia for the ride to the hostile style residence but was tired and agreed to pay more that...700 more than that. But at 250 to 1 I still felt ok about it.
My friends told me this is a different place but you never know a statement like that until you are there. Mauritania is very poor. Very poor. Not much money is put into the things like parks and roadways or even city planning. I got to the hostile place which turned out to be more like camping on the rooftop. Literally. but for what I wanted to pay this was the deal...and it was clean camping. My friend Abdel malik had told me about this place soI brought that up to the guy and exchanged friendlies that go along with having a mutual friend. Even though it was 3 in the morning and it was still very hot. But all I was concerned with was a mosquito net which there was in the hut which I rented.
When I woke up I realized how different this was.Noukchott is also a very dirty place. Which is qllright but it really does make you sick to your stomach after awhile to see and smell all kinds of garbage decomposing all over the streets and sides of the roads. I didn't sleep much because of the flight but did manage to squeeze out some hours of shut eye well after the morning prayer and closer to sunrise. I then caught a cab to "downtown" to this moswue I read about in Lonely planet and realized once I asked which street I was on that no one knew. The city isn't developed like other cities so it is very hard to circumnavigate and in fact locals don't use street name the only use landmarks to get from place to place. This kind of frustrated me because I like to get oriented on a map so that I can keep busy with finding places and feel acomplished as well. I realized how hard this was going to be so I found a internet cafe on the corner and decided to retreat to the comforts of connecting to those who I now and catching up on email.
In the cybe cafe I heard an American accent dressed in local islamic Sahara clothing and decided to ask where he was from. It turns out that Isa (african american guy from California) knew Abdel Malik (the guy from fes) and he said not to worry from there on out and that I could stay with him. Wow. I then read an Email from Abdel Malik which said to get in contact with a guy named Isa who was now sitting next to me. Double wow. God is good. We then hung out for the day meeting Sheikhs and friends from Kentucky (I know...go figure) and even had a hamburger and some donuts shortly after! Ill fill you in on the rest in a bit! Pics coming soon.
Friday, October 3, 2008
Marafresh
Well unfortunatly quite a bit of time has passed since I entered the last blog. After a long but peaceful train ride into Marakesh, I was pleasantly met by Hamza who had been the one who introduced me to Abdel Malek in Fes. He actully had car which was nice for a change. We picked up some groceries (at a bonified grocery store no doubt) and then went off to his house. For some reason Marakesh looks fake to me...Like over done California stucco arcitecture or something. But his neighborhood was very nice, and once again like Jojo's in Phoenix it was nice to be in a domesticated atmosphere. He and his extremely nice wife have three beautiful children which were gems. He is very involved in the Sufi community in Marakesh and so after we broke fast there was a beautiful dhikr (rememerence of God) session at his house where I also met Mohamed Yaqub-an American convert from northern California.
The next day I was wacked out tired so I slept most the day but upon waking up from a nap a pinched a nerve in my neck which completly locked up all the muscles in my upper back! Like an idiot I tried to play basketball later on and made it worse. The whole next day I laid in bed basically.
Eventually I made it out the day after and went to the major tourist/shopping area with Yaqub. Marakesh is the worst of the tourist areas because of the amount of effort that goes towards taking foriegners money. Never the less we found some good deals on leather sandals which are staple footwear around here. When you take your footgear off everytime you enter a house or mosque...they are necessary. But really besides the wonderful experience of staying with Hamza and later with Yaqub the parts of Marakesh that peoplke come to see are not my cup of tea.
Well the month of Ramadaan came and went and has left a bit of a hole in my life. Who would ever think that you would miss fasting. But alas it is true. In such a discipined month one finds an incredible amount of happiness and sharing which I have yet to be topped. The Eid...Clebration at the end of the month...was great. Abdl Malek made it down from Fes on his way to London which was a treat to get to see him again. The prayer took place outside with litealy tens of thousands of people. Later we got together at Hamza's for a very nice Lunch with a lot of his friends and family. Having coffe in the daytime was nice as was a large glass of water. You literally forget what it is like to eat durring the day.
I could not have asked for a better month with better people. It is one for the record books for sure.
The next day I was wacked out tired so I slept most the day but upon waking up from a nap a pinched a nerve in my neck which completly locked up all the muscles in my upper back! Like an idiot I tried to play basketball later on and made it worse. The whole next day I laid in bed basically.
Eventually I made it out the day after and went to the major tourist/shopping area with Yaqub. Marakesh is the worst of the tourist areas because of the amount of effort that goes towards taking foriegners money. Never the less we found some good deals on leather sandals which are staple footwear around here. When you take your footgear off everytime you enter a house or mosque...they are necessary. But really besides the wonderful experience of staying with Hamza and later with Yaqub the parts of Marakesh that peoplke come to see are not my cup of tea.
Well the month of Ramadaan came and went and has left a bit of a hole in my life. Who would ever think that you would miss fasting. But alas it is true. In such a discipined month one finds an incredible amount of happiness and sharing which I have yet to be topped. The Eid...Clebration at the end of the month...was great. Abdl Malek made it down from Fes on his way to London which was a treat to get to see him again. The prayer took place outside with litealy tens of thousands of people. Later we got together at Hamza's for a very nice Lunch with a lot of his friends and family. Having coffe in the daytime was nice as was a large glass of water. You literally forget what it is like to eat durring the day.
I could not have asked for a better month with better people. It is one for the record books for sure.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)